I have to admit that I didn't have any intention of staying in Ecuador for a long, at least not on the mainland, just as long as I find the way to Galápagos Islands. Fortunately, It took me less than an hour to change the entire plan.
Arriving in Quito, the capital of Ecuador, went smoothly. My Airbnb hosts welcomed me at the airport. For this five month trip, I choose this way of accommodation rather than a hotel or hostel. The room I stayed in was very comfortable and they helped me to get all the information I needed.
Quito is not an ordinary capital, I would say. It's the city closest to Equator, right in the middle of two hemispheres. It's a city with the biggest amount of radiation caused by vicinity of Equator and I felt it on my skin, when it turned purple. It's surrounded by volcanoes which occasionally "flare-up", what my aunty had warned me about, suggesting me to stay at home because it's safe. And also, Quito is a part of World Cultural Heritage so it's not only geographic position that makes it special. It was obvious I needed some extra time for this destination.
The first day of my arrival, while I was enjoying beautiful Colonial-styled architecture, I saw the parade in the Old Town. The occasion was not my arrival but the presence of the Ecuadorian Government. Watching all these soldiers in the traditional uniforms and locals saluting them, singing national songs to the sound of drums, I realized Ecuadorians are very proud of their national identity. That's probably because of territories and borders lost in conflicts with Peru and Columbia.
Just strolling around, I noticed the streets are full of stray dogs, behaving very friendly to people and people treating them nicely, too. That's not the case in the country I came from.
It takes some space for the population of two million people so the houses are dispersed up the hills around the city. I'm not sure how this urban plan can stand an earthquake or eruption.
The most exciting panoramic view of Quito is, in my opinion, from the trail to volcano Pichincha. I was reaching higher altitude heaving my head in the clouds, literally. There was no fog so it was possible to see the peaks of other nearby volcanoes too. Unfortunately, I couldn't get to the top because I've been coughing my head off for two months, so I got tired easily. Although I was high enough to have a bird's eye view to the basin that the city lays within.
After this thorough sightseeing, it was time for an adventure. The real one. Tena and Baños, few hours far away from Quito, are the right places to be. I would suggest a local bus to get there. It's cheap and comfortable.
I stayed in Tena for a day and a half. The first thing I visited was the Rain Forrest. It's amazing how this natural environment can sustain not just flora and fauna but also human existence: food, medicines, energy drinks, antidepressants, repellents, tree-shelters, there's no need for all the fake comfort of civilization. For example, I needed some snack and all I had available at that moment was a small colony of ants living inside of some plant. It was a "nature call" and I followed it. The ants taste like lemon and if I added some water, it would be a 100% natural lemonade. Soon after, it was a lunch time. You would never guess what was on the menu: worms, big and thick. I couldn't refuse this gesture either. If ants taste like lemon, worms taste like bacon. And, love bacon. My mom would get a heart attack if she saw me eating that. As a main course I was served a fish wrapped in the "plátano verde" leaves, called maito. Sounds so boring after two previous delicacies.
The dessert I had, may sound ordinary but the taste was extraordinary. It was a chocolate, made of dry cacao seeds. I was able to watch the whole process of turning a cacao into a chocolate: roasting, grinding and tasting (witch is my favorite). I prefer it bitter as it is, than with sugar added. I also was given a chance to harvest and to plant yuca and the drink made of it, called chicha. Traditionally, it's a female job to plant yuca and I was the only one present at that moment. If a female takes a root from the ground without leaving anything behind, she's ready to get married. I left a small piece inside, so it's never too late to stay single, I guess.
Next morning I was off to see some of the caves around Tena, known only to the local people. I saw a lot of caves traveling around, but this experience was different. For the first time in my life, I went all along through it, not just staying on some platform, walking and observing around. The bottom of the cave is very muddy, at some point there is water running, the depth was up to my waist. The walls are very narrow so a plus size person wouldn't go through. It's not recommended for claustrophobic people, either. Wearing rather shorts than a long pants was a big mistake. In order to get out, I had to croll, so I got some memories on my knees from caving. Again, I asked myself and the guide, what would happen if Earth starts shaking a little bit ( my aunty had influenced me more than I wanted). Luckily, I got my way out, safe and sound. The other cave was bigger but less explored. I just got to the place where shaman holds the rituals with all the stones circle shaped. There was some serenity inside, maybe a leftover from some recent ritual.
Ah, tha Baños... I stayed here for a day and the thrill I got, was enough for a year. Everything is located downtown, there are a lot of agencies offering kayaking, kanyoing, rock climbing, paragliding, etc. I chose rafting as the first thing to do in the morning. I had tried it a year ago and hardly survived it, but I couldn't go against. Even the rapids are not highest-graded, I was the only one, out of twenty people, who fell out from the boat, twice. Rafting was exhausting, I keep forgetting that I'm not twenty any more and I chose one more thing to give myself a hard time. It was the reason for my coming here - canyoning or walking down the waterfall (a smaller one, of course) using a rope. It seemed easy, for some people, I'm not very sporty so I stayed hanging upside down for a while. Anyway, I was enjoying the water falling on me while other people from the group were freezing and waiting for me. I almost lost the last bus for the next destination. The scenery was fascinating: forrest, rocks, waterfalls, peaks of the hills in the clouds...
At the end, I can say Ecuadorians are very friendly and ready to help even if they speak few words of English. I've learned some Spanish from people I worked with so I was able to communicate. Also, locals don't push tourists much to by something. Sometimes, it can be really exhausting and it can spoil the impression.
The food in Ecuador is something I'm really fond of. It's common for the entire Andes aeria: corn, behau leaves, yuca, plátano... I recommend eating at the local places. The gratuity is not a mandatory, around 10% is suggested. I was always satisfied with the service. Fruit vegetable, specially freshly squeezed juices taste amazingly. Some of my favorite juices are tomato de arbol and naranjilla, I couldn't start the day without.
I left the mainland looking it back.
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